ITS#SEVEN fashion design competition winners

This years International Talent Support competition ITS#SEVEN winners have been announced. This year Finnish Heikki Salonen grabbed the Diesel Award (50 000€) with his graduate collection. Congratulations! There were many zippers seen in the winning collections and no wonder because YKK was one of the event sponsors. See all the winners and their collection images HERE. I recommend clicking to the high-res images so you can see the details better. All of these collections are filled with stunning details. There´s also plenty of event photos available about the show and all the other desgners and collections in the competition.

FASHION COLLECTION OF THE YEAR - David Steinhorst. Zippers galore. Click to the high-res images for a closer look at the zipperwork.





DIESEL AWARD - Heikki Salonen. I loved the cropped unisex suit jacket, patched pants, blanket jacket and shoulder pearl beading.





MARIA LUISA AWARD - Alithia Spuri Zampetti. Stunning paper sculpture clothing.




Accessories Collection of the Year - Valentim Quaresma Unbeliavable steampunk / cyberpunk inspired metal scrap bodyjewelry collection.




YKK Award - Benjamin Shun Lai Ng. Very clever detailing and design ideas on mens footwear.

Wardrobe metamorphosis by Azumi & David (part 2)

Azumi & David morph different pieces of the wardrobe to create new humorous fashions called "Things to wear". I spent yesterday two hours browsing through all of their collections. There were so many cool and inspirational reconstructions that I have to show them to you in three parts: 1. tops, 2. scarfs belts, 3. bags. Check out also A&D blog.

A&D sees scarfs as much more than a simple piece of cloth. It can also be styled with collars, hoods or cuffs or made from unconventional materials like sportjcket sleeves. I never realized that sleeves can be transformed to so many different garments. A good design also enables the item to be more than one way. I especially love their woollen botton scarfs because they can be worn light or attached together to add more warmth. Also the hoodie scarf is a functional garment with an urban look. These designs will also go on my trashion-to-do list. Perfect for fall.

You can see the A&D collection details better if you open the images by clicking them.

Wardrobe metamorphosis by Azumi & David (part 1)

Azumi & David morph different pieces of the wardrobe to create new humorous fashions called "Things to wear". I spent yesterday two hours browsing through all of their collections. There were so many cool and inspirational reconstructions that I have to show them to you in three parts: 1. tops, 2. scarfs belts, 3. bags. Check out also A&D blog.

Azumi & David has mixed shirts, tees and sweats to create totally new items in the wardrobe. I call them "shirtop" and "shirtees". It also got me thingking on the amount of possibilities when taking a part and putting back together three different garments. T-shirts are made from 4 pieces, hooded sweats from 6 pieces and a shirt from 8 pieces... How many different combos does that amount to??? I´m not clever enought to give you an exact answer but at the moment I´m dying to find out! Splitting some pieces just gives you even more choices.

A&D uses clean and classic patterns in their collection, but my morphed thirtees would be constructed from grungy band-tees and men´s office shirts and flannel shirts. I call it "blue collar grunge". I´m so looking forward to getting my sewingmachine back from repair so I can start working on these!! Guaranteed Etsy stuff. You can see the A&D collection details better if you open the images by clicking them.

Vinyl necklaces at Prada

Isn´t it wonderful how Miuccia Prada always seems to add trashion styled details to her collections and make them still look so elegant and classic?! Of course I´m talking about the vinyl necklaces and cuffs in her latest Fall 2008 collection. Beautiful lace coctail dresses are teamed up with wawy vinyl pieces that look like they could be made from thrifted vinyl records. You´ve propaby seen some vinyl bowls at Etsy, but this kind of styling just takes them to a complitely new level! I know these are not the thing for a beginner trashionista to make, but if you want some for your self I think Etsy Alchemy would come in handy. Just look up artists like EyePopArt or Stella James to help you out.

Prada collection images via Style.com.





Prada inspired vinyl necklace by Clamity Jem.

Stylish peplums and fashion terminology

Queen Michelle from Kindom Of Syle blog created this wonderful and very stylish peplum to complete her wardrobe. What is a peplum, you may ask? According to Encyclopedia.com "peplum is a a short flared, gathered, or pleated strip of fabric attached at the waist of a woman's jacket, dress, or blouse to create a hanging frill or flounce".

Prada had some lightly padded versions in their Fall 2008 collection. Sounds intresting, looks stylish and is easy to make for yourself! I have a stack of shoulder pads in my craft supplies closet (cut out from secondhand 80´s clothes) that would work great in this project. I´d cover the pads up with lace, trim the edges and sew together onto a elastic waistband. Or you could use some of those fabric scaps left over from your latest dress/skirt sewing project. I know you have them! :) Quick trashion and an instant facelift for any pencil skirt or straight cuctail dress you have in your closet.

Peplums at Prada Fall 2008 collection:




I have learned so many new fashion related words (in English) since I started this blog. I´ve studied fashion terminology in Finnish and felt really frustrated in the beginning of my writing when I could not express myself correctly. But as I have browsed through hundreds of fashion blog posts, I have picked a few words on the way. I´m still a looong way from being an A student so I thought getting some proper fashion dictionaries might help. I found two from Amazon: Fairchild Dictionary of Fashion and The Thames and Hudson Dictionary of Fashion and Fashion Designers (World of Art).

Clothing reconstruction ideas from Viktor & Rolf Fall 2008 collection

I spent a good part of my weekend browsing through Firstview.com fall 2008 fashion collections. Every fashion blog is posting about the next fall trend so there´s propably no point of me doing the same. I concentrate on finding ideas from them that you fellow DIYers can aply in your projects. And boy did I hit the motherload!

I´m sure most of you have seen pics of the unreal 3D slogan jackets in Viktor & Rolf Fall 2008 collection. Quite stunning, but they take a bit of planning and pattern making to pull off. I want to see fast results in my DIY fashion projects (plus my sewing machine is at the repair shop) so that was not the thing that caught my attention... It was the STAPLES!! The entire collection is filled with seams with random staple-details. V&R also used them for gathering volume and combining pieces (sleeves to bodice). The best thing is that this DIY tip is unisex so you can style your mans wardrobe at the same go.






I had to go get my husbands staple gun immediately and try this out. I don´t think this would work so good on my silk party dress, so I´ll start from refashioning old tees, shirts and jeans. The staples need to be shot against a surface that absorbs the hit but allows them to be taken out easily - thick styrofoam. Be carefull when pulling off the garment. The staple is through the fabric but it still needs to be bent underneath to secure the fastening. Hammer the staple ends down to finish the detail. I´m sure V&R have sewed the seams normally before stapling them, but I would not bother if you are in a hurry... In this case "less is more" does not aply. The more the merrier.

I´m not sure if the staples I have are stainless steel, but I´m kinda hoping there not... I want them to rust when the garment is washed!! That would make a cool effect. Looooove rust. If the washing machine does not work in rusting, I´ll try soaking. CheapBoutique at Etsy also gave me a tip to use Boiled egg yolk works, Ammonia or urine for rust-treatments. Ammonia (clorine/bleach) might be easiest. I remember some denim buttons rusting when I soaked a pair of jeans in raw bleach. Ooops.

Re-inventing your craft

Craft artists love their creations but sometimes I think they lose the ability to view their designs and technique objectively and that often results to lack of renovation in their designs or product range. They just keep doing the same stuff year after year... Let me give you an example. I went to a recycle-craft fair today in Helsinki. I saw too many totebags and brooches but not a single laptop case or iPod case!

Laptop carriercase by Janine King Designs at Etsy. Simple but very functional design.


Re-invent your color pallette.

Color is a very important part in design and the overall presentation of the product. We all have our favorite colors and color pallettes. I spoke to one crafter today at the fair about colors and she said the best sellers for her have always been black, white, brown and red (mostly burgundy and blood red). She had some green and orange in her collection but confessed that she keeps them in the collection just because they are her favorite colors even they do not sell that well. She has made a smart move on following up on what sells and developing her collections to match that even though they might not be her favorites.



Neon colors for example are a big trend at the moment but I have seen only a few crafters using them. If you´re lacking ideas on new color combinations, color design books can be found from bookstores or you can use color palette generator sites. They are an exellent tool to finding new color combinations.



Re-invent you technique.

Finland has many artists/designers that use felt as their main material. They know their technique, but the design is often overlooked. If you want to see what I mean just google the words "huovutus kuvat". And then go to the firsts links and click on to "Kuvagalleria". The productpictures are good but unfortunately I cannot imagine anyone from my friends or family ever wearing these sort of items. Wool is a wonderful, classic and very practical material and that´s why I feel so sad for the lack of design potential in this craft-gendre.

If you do make stuff just for yourself and happen to do this kind of felt work, note that I´m not talking about you. I believe you should always be true to your personal style when doing home-crafts for yourself. I´m taking about the professional craft designers that have a brand and sell their craft goods for a living. Be aware that most consumers do not share your exact taste in style.

A good collection and product can be used by different aged and styled people. Even different genders if the design is really thought through. Always have unisex items in your collection so your customers can buy them not only for themselves but also for their friends, children and spouses.

Elegant felted plate-tablets by I Do Studios at Etsy.


Re-invent your best-seller.

When selling items a brand needs to follow fashion- and interior (micro)trends and modify the prodect range and colors accordingly to meet your customers needs. How else will craft business grow and reach new consumers! I recommend reading craft and design blogs and valued magazine publications. Don´t just make basic totebags when you can imitate this seasons designer it-bag and make it from your material of choise with your signature working techniques (leather, wood, knit, reconstructed clothing). I´d love to see someone do a Burberry Prorsum The Mason Warrior bag or Michael Kors Ranger patent bag from army surplus or secondhand leather jackets, buttons and belts.



And don´t just focus on bags. There´s hats, gloves, belts, masks, jewellry, underwear, legwarmers, skirts, tees, capes and all other fashion product categories (not to mention all interior design product categories) to keep your collection versatile! Sites like Trendstop.com or Style.com show inspirational raports on the latest fads like this about Heroes. I´m sure designer inspired pieces pay better anyway especially if they are made as numbered limited edition products or one season collections. Or even more exclusive.. "made by order".

Forget modesty and aim high. If you can´t imagine your product in a Vogue/ID styled fashion editorial or a respected interior publication, maybe the design still needs some work. Be a renessance crafter.

Jean-Charles de Castelbajac

French fashion designer veteran Jean Charles De Castelbajac ("JC/DC" to friends) is known for his childlike basic-colored creations inspired by sports, pop-art, logos and animation caracters and other cultural icons. He loves wool, felt and sequins and a teddybear apphears in every collection - it´s his trademark. Castelbajac has a way to present humoristic details in his creations. One of his most known pieces is the teddybear-jacket and pants that Red Hot Chilli Peppers member Flea worn on one of their music videos in the mid 90´s.



For a few years he did not show any collections, but I´m happy to see he´s back! His olympic games inspired SS2008 collection had some amazing jewellry made from legos (check also collection details).





His collection images can be found from Elle.com Runway shows (search Castelbajac) and Firstview.com. Perfect inspiration if you´re into fabric printing, appliques, hats or making jewellry from toys. So get your legos and stuffed animals and go create some rad fashion pieces with smilies!!

Eco-fashion fantasies and Earth Pledge FutureFashion Show 2008

I was reading Jill Danyelles´s blog The Laboratory today when I found her post on Earth Pledge FutureFashion Show 2008 held January 31st just before NY Fashion Week started. In this post she makes are very good point in critisizing the shows designerlist and basic purpose. I mean it DOES seem a bit hypocritical that most of the designers on this eco-fashion-show just did this one outfit for FutureFashion (that´s not even going to be manufactured for sales) but have done nothing or hardly anything for changing their selling labels more sustainable or organic. If brands produce eco-frocks like these, they could have at least be auctioned at Ebay for charity... But no. They just ended up on display at Barneys departmentstore window. It´s a shame.

You can have a look at these gorgeous FutureFashion outfits and other show coverage at Style.com, Treehugger, Inhabitat, Fashion Windows blog and Fashionista.



I read all the articles that I could find about this show and I was happy to see that the show (plus the eco-textile industry) got a lot of good press. But I still agree with Jill that this could have been handled sooo much better. I think the show should have been organized complitely with labels that are all ready 100% sustainable fashion design. The consumer masses need to be proven that sustainable can be ultra fenimine and gorgeous as it it when done correctly. Which is why I would have loved to see more color in this FutureFashion show.. Ecru is classic but a bit boring.

Many major fashion labels have occasional launhces of small organic collections, but honestly how long do we have to wait until Dior, Prada or more maintream labels like H&M and Zara go complitely sustainable?? Only a small part of the fashion community has realized the potential, possibilities and responsibility of sustainable fashion. If you want the masses to follow the change has to be made on corporate level since it´s going to take way too long for all the world to edjucate themselves on eco-materials and sustainable fashion consumption.

You would think that fashion CEOs would realize the marketing potential of eco-fashion. The technology of making organic fashion is all ready available and in use. It´s just a matter of will to make the change from conventional production to organic in brand-large-scale. If I would be one of those CEO´s I´d make sure all my designers are trained to know the full production lifeline and eco-materials so they would make the best of them in all our collections. I mean if the designer does not think sustainably, then who does?!

Just imagine if a international brand H&M or Gap would announce they are now 100% sustainable. We could go there to shop fashion with out bugging the floorstaf with stricky questions about the origin of each item and material... And you would find shops in almost every city you could think of shopping in.

Another fashion fantasy I have is to someday shop in a sustainable departmentstore where every item available from clothes to the bagels sold in the cafe would be eco, fairtrade or sustainable. Of course all sales staff would be trained to know what they are selling... But hey, a girl can dream, right?

Bora Aksu SS06 & FW05 crochet chaos

If you have not heard of a fashion house called Bora Aksu, now is the time to get acquainted. Much like Preen, they reconstruct garments from scrap-fabrics. The form of their clothes is always very organic and very feminine at the same time.

You can see currently four of their collections free at Firsview.com. I suggest you start with the SS06 collection. It will propably take a few hours to browse all pages through, but it is totally worth it. Sooo many beautiful details. Firstview has also bigger images than Style.com so you are able to see all details much more clearly.

Happy browsing!

Preen FW2004 collection

Preen made fantastic reconstructed knits and shirt dresses in their Fall 2004 collection. I think this label is a very good example of a brand that does not get much press coverage, but is very important for a self-making fashionista.

I thought you should see at least the shirt collar dress, which again proves my point of "large quantities make art". Buy a lot (estimated 30-50) of recycled men´s shirts, preferrably in a certain color sceme and cut out the shoulder/collar area. Then sew them on a simple spagetti strap dress, which you propably have in your closet but have not used since 99`. Your dress is finished and it propably took you only one afternoon! If you want to make it look even more festive, just use secondhand satin ladies shirts instead. The sewing does not need to be fancy because the new layer of collars always covers the other one...







Another idea is to take three or four recycled basic men´s knits, cut them apart and them reconstruct them together on a dummy to make your new "fankenstein" knit. Just be carefull when cutting your knit that you do not stretch the pieces. The loops might begin to unravle. But I´m all for trashy looking stuff! You can always darn them together later to make your knit even more trashion.

Collections that inspire me

I thought it was time to share more collections which I find still to be very inspiring. The first is Christopher Kane 2007 Summer collection. I think the way he has combined fluo colors and lace is genious. Also the use of D-rings and ribbon. I see this kind of clothing created from those awful 80´s aerobic-suits, secondhand corsets + all your left over laceribbons, shoelaces and curtainrings. There is basically no wrong way to combine colors or material in this theme. 80´s lurex + lace + glitter fabrics + any colored lace ribbons.

I was so inspired by this collection that I made a dress by using a secondhand corset, metres of neoyellow 80´s elastic waistband and recycled street workmen´s fluovests for the base. The details are made from a roll of lace ribbon that I had been in my craft supply closet for years + some left over curtain rings. The result was quite Nu-rave, I think.

Here´s a picture of my finished dress but also some pics of Kane SS2007 collection. See the entire collection at Firstview.com

Chloe SS2007 Collection details

We all know that one can sew stylish dresses from thrifted 70´s fabrics (like curatins and beadspreads). Chloe had one of the most inspirational collections this summer. They combined 70´s styled printfabrics and embellished them with small metal objects and buttons. Again.. don´t just use ten buttons, sew all you have on the garment to make it look fashion. Concentrate more on the colors than on the amount. Sometimes just more is more...

Check out the entire collection and detail images at FirstView.